Saturday 13 June 2009

Lhasa

I remember reading about Lhasa as a kid (in National Geographic if memory serves) – and it's been another life time dream to go. To make it even better – there's a major festival on here (Saga Dawa) and it's estimated that 100,000 pilgrims will be in town for the festival.

Part of Lhasa is just like any other modern Chinese town (some say it's part of an attempt by the government to erode Tibetan culture and independence) – but the old part still retains its charm. Doug managed to land us a really great hostel which had an amazing view from the roof top cafe of the Potala Palace – the former home of the Dalai Lama - and only cost one pound fifty a night.

This is a place full of history, and to actually be here is such an incredible experience. It's so unlike anywhere else I've been. And it exceeded my already high expectations. It was incredible just to be able to walk through the streets of Lhasa surrounded by pilgrims.

The main square in Lhasa old town - with the Jokhang Temple in the background:



Yak Butter lamps burning at the temple:



Following pilgrims in a Kora of the temple through the streets of Lhasa:



The main square with mountains in the back. There was a water cannon disguised as a Fire Engine in the square the whole time we were there - you can just make it out on the left of the picture:



Just part of the massive military presence. There was some speculation that there would be an uprising on the 7th June, and there was a military presence on every street corner, or marching around with guns:



...and standing on roof tops:



If I say it was very very heavy handed - I'm not even starting to exaggerate. Check out further updates for my run in with the army to get an example of the level of paranoia there is here.

After a morning wandering the streets, we set off to see the Potala Palace. The Lonely Planet suggests that it's empty and that there's not much to see. But the Planet is totally wrong - there's loads to see - and you could easily spend three or four hours wandering around. Not only is it imposing on the inside – but it's really imposing on the inside too.

The Potala palace:



You can see where the Dalai Lama's used to live in the white part of the building. And then in the red section there are the tomb's of the Dalai Lama's and room's full of Manadalas and small chapels...

The amazing Potala Palace:



Er...me - about to climb the stairs into one of the most amazing buildings in the world:



This interesting sign presented a slight problem.



But we did manage a few sneaky pictures:

Much of the inside is painted, here's an example:



Where the Dalai Lama's used to sit:



Yak Butter Lights:



Just one of the many, many, many security cameras - it felt like there were more here than in your average casino. We even got followed around by a security guard for a while:



Tomb of one of the Lama's (sorry - can't remember which one):



On the roof of the Palace:



View from the roof:



At the most important temple in the complex a guy was polishing the floor by sliding on old rugs. I asked if I could have a go – and to my surprise he said yes. So he let me into the inside bit and I ended up ice skating along the floor. Everyone else had a go – so we can all claim to have helped clean the Potola Palace :-)

That night we went to a great restaurant and had...Indian food. It was pretty good – home style Indian – you just can't beat a good curry.

One final pic - the Potala Palace at sunset - taken while sharing some good company and a cold Lhasa Beer :-)



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I'm having a few problems inserting links because of the Internet restrictions in China, so here are a few for those of you interested in reading a bit more about the above:

The Potala Palace: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potala_Palace
Lhasa: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lhasa
Kora: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kora_(pilgrimage)
Jokhang Temple: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jokhang

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