Gobi Desert Adventure - Part 2

As we headed up behind the caves, the storm that had been threatening all day finally decided to hit, and the temperature began to drop the further into the desert we went.

Thankfully I had my jumper with me, but even with this and a hat it was starting to get really cold, so Abe and I decided to walk to try and keep warm.

After an hour we could see strange diamond shapes in the distant dunes, and while we were getting closer Abe and I were trying to guess what it was. It turns out it's where they grow corn, using the shapes in the picture below to stabilise the dunes.



We stopped at a large pile of hay, and while the camels helped themselves, we sheltered from the wind and ate some cashew nuts.

The straw that broke the camel's back:



But before long it was time to head back into the raging storm. We put on the net face guards Mr. Li had given us, but even with these the sand kept getting into our eyes. And then to make things even worse – it started to rain.

Putting the tent up was a real challenge, and even with the three of us working together it proved tough. In the end, Abe had to get in to stop it blowing away, while I dug the tent into the sand and Mr. Li filled sand bags which he used to tie the tent down with.

By this point it was starting to get really wet, and so we jumped in the tent and had dinner of local bread, cucumbers, and beer. While we ate, the wind blew the walls of the tent around so badly that at one point we had to hold them up.

As we sat listening to the sound of the sand and rain, we could just make out another sound – almost too quite to hear - like someone singing – almost musical – but not quite. It was the sound of the dunes as the wind moved tons of sand through the air.

There was no let up as the light finally died, and as the wind drove the sand and rain into the side of the tent - water began to leak in. At one point it was running down one side of the tent, so we tried to arrange ourselves as best we could to stay dry – although it became increasingly difficult as the rain continued to come into the tent.

And after a long chat – we settled in for the long night ahead.

At one point the wind stopped, and I decided to head out to the toilet. Outside of the tent I could just make out two forlorn lumps: the camels had had to sit through the whole event without the benefit of any shelter – although they did seem quite happy ruminating on the hay they'd eaten earlier.

As soon as I got back into the tent – the wind, rain, and sand all started up again with what seemed like an increased violence. And I lay awake the rest of the night waiting for daylight.

At 6am, Mr. Li woke up and headed out to get breakfast, and we soon heard him calling us. The scene outside was so unlike the night before. The dunes were peaceful – with no wind. And the most amazing sunrise coloured the sky. It was one of the those magical moments. Worth the sleepless night just to stand and watch the desert waking as the sun crept higher into the sky.

Day break:







After breakfast we set off – on foot – walking through the most amazing landscape. The quality of light so incredible, and the rain had flattened and compacted the sand adding a sharp edge to everything.





Behind my camel:









And then – we spotted the camp-site from the night before, and in the distance Dunhuang. And after another hour on the camels we were back in the cemetery and heading for Mr. Li's.

That night we went out for a monster meal - and had the Eggplant Burns Face - my favourite: