Wednesday 13 May 2009

Lijiang

Another crazy journey - it was supposed to be four hours but took almost five and a half, as we were slowed down by three car accidents and some bad weather going over one of the mountain passes.

But the scenery was really picturesque - and I listened to some great music (Coldplay: X&Y, A Rush bootleg called Echo On The Stages, Powderfinger: Vulture Street and Odyssey Number 5, and Led Zeppelin 4).

Lijiang is a world heritage site, and is a very popular tourist destination. It's a lot bigger than Dali, and quite a bit busier - although the vast majority of tourists are Chinese.

The Old City has been pedestrianized, and a lot of it has been restored. It's very different from other parts of China, because is was built by the Naxi people who migrated here from Tibet, and have there own separate culture.

It's really picturesque - although it can get a bit busy (a bit like walking down Skipton High Street on a warm Friday lunchtime when the old dears are in town :-).

Here are some pics:



The old town from the top of the hill:



Lost in translation?



The local Naxi Bread: with spring onions and small bits of meat - really tasty, and a super cheap lunch:



Dragon Pool Lake - it costs 80 yaun to get in - I'd only go again if Jade Snow Mountain is in full view - although it's a nice place for a wander if a little expensive:



Typical street:



The water wheels at the main square:



One of the many canals - these use to be the main water source in town - the water is incredibly clean and there are loads of very brightly coloured fish:



...and it's all lit up at night with beautiful lanterns:





On the Saturday night I went to an Irish Bar, hoping that there'd be some travelers around. All I'll say is it was a bit strange (those who were there will know what I mean :-) - although I've heard it gets pretty good when there are loads of people in. So I went for a walk down "Pub Street", but there were only Chinese people (and hardly anyone speaks English) - although it was fun to watch the Chinese having fun - it's a three day bank holiday here - so they were in full swing.

The funny thing is - the Chinese love everything kitsch. So - imagine: a very narrow street filled entirely with bars and clubs - all playing music at top volume. At some places there was Karaoke (no one drunk - but all participating), dance music at others, or people dressed in minority costume doing weird dance routines.

There was also some live music - but most of the guitars were annoyingly out of tune - although everyone seemed to love it. They even get up and sing (including plenty of people who can't).

Another odd thing is that people don't clap - they bang wooden blocks on the tables or have these clapping hand devices - with loads of plastic hands that you shake around to make a clapping sound.

But - despite it all being a bit naff - it was really innocent and all very very fun. No one takes anything that seriously - and I was won over by it at the end. It wouldn't work in the UK - or just about anywhere else in the world - but it works here - and you just can't help finding it a bit infectious.

It was fun to watch the Chinese having fun - a real experience.

The next day I set off for a two day walking trip to Tiger Leaping Gorge - and left my main bag at the International Youth Hostel. Leaving my bag was a decision I was going to regret - but that's another story for another day...

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So - here's my tuppence worth on the Dali / Lijiang debate: do both. They're totally different, and while I preferred Dali - Lijiang is totally worth a day - and it's close to Tiger Leaping Gorge - which is a must.

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