To be fair, Siem Reap is a bit of a tourist trap - but a nice once at that. It caters to tourists and travellers on every budget (you should see some of the hotels) - and is the kind of place most people (no mater how unadventurous) are going to be able to visit without too many hardships.
The Planet describes it as a bubble within Cambodia. I'm not sure I'd go that far - there are still some rough edges here, but it does feel artificial. There's a street called Pub Street which caters for western tourists - nice comfy chairs, fans, and attentive service. You can eat any type of food from croissants to curry, or Pizza to Noodle Soup. And the prices are high (comparatively speaking).
There's also plenty of hassle. As you walk down the street there are people shouting to you from 100 yards up: "sir, sir, you want tuk tuk". And it goes on as you walk down the street: a constant stream of tuk tuk's, massages, and restaurants.
But - it's all done with a sense of fun. Stop for a minute with the Tuk Tuk guy's and the banter gets going. And the hard sell stops as the jokes and laughter take over.
There's the seedy side of town - just like any other tourist trap: the guy's wanting to sell you weed, or the girl's wanting to know if you want a massage or "something sir". But for the most part, this is only located on a few street corners.
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I stayed at the Mandalay Inn - $10 a night for a room with shower and fan. The room's a good size and the place is super friendly - all the staff are really chatty, and it's nice to start and finish the day with a laugh and a joke.
I spent my three days at the temples with Raman. What a great guy - I'd recommend him in an instant. If your in town and need a driver to take you around then ask for Raman at the Mandalay Inn. Raman knows the area really well - and knows what's worth checking out. He can also offer great advice on the order for seeing things so you maximize the time - and he also knows some great lunch spots...
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